What??? Living in Lancaster Ain’t Chopped Liver

I had a request.Image

I’m honoring it, with one of my favorite recipes of all time.  I made it at the Epicure in Miami Beach, usually 120 pounds a week.  They sell a lot of chopped liver in Miami Beach–at least they did when I was there.  Of course, Miami Beach wasn’t then what it is now; it was full of people who ate chopped liver and died young (young in Miami Beach back  then was defined as 88).  But we made chopped liver.  Legend had it it was my grandmother’s recipe.  I can’t say for sure; she never made it for me, and my father used to say that the rumors of her cooking skills were greatly exaggerated.  She was, after all, a working woman from  the time she arrived in the US at Providence, R.I. back at the turn of the twentieth century until she had her first heart attack at the age of sixty-something.  Grandma Jenny was the greatest.  Big, full of life, typical of the American Jewish grandmother but with none of the passive-aggressiveness.  Nothing passive about Jenny.  Her aggressiveness was right there in your face.  Ask Uncle Sidney.  But she was very kind.

But a cook? I think not so much.  But she used to make me a mean saucer full of hot water with lemon.

Anyway here’s our chopped liver recipe, scaled down from the 120-pound recipe to a more manageable quantity.  You might think this is a lot of chopped liver–who needs this much anyway??–but resist the temptation to halve the recipe.  This will lose almost half its weight in water during the cooking process.  Make at least this much, maybe even double it.  This recipe will serve six nicely as an appetizer.

Jenny’s (?) Chopped Liver

Ingredients:

2 pounds fresh chicken livers

2 pounds sweet Vidalia (or large yellow) onions, halved, then thinly sliced

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

1/2 cup plus two tablespoons rendered chicken fat,nyafat

or

1/2 cup plus two tablespoons Rokeach onion-flavored Nyafat (kosher-style vegetable shortening available online or in some stores in Philly or New York–I don’t have any idea where else, but it can be had)

4 hard-cooked eggs

2 teaspoons kosher saltmaggi

1/2 teaspoon fine-ground white pepper

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons Maggi Seasoning (available at many good specialty grocery stores, and at my local Asian market)

Preparation:

Heat 1/4 cup chicken fat or vegetable shortening until shimmering in each of two large saute pans.  Don’t go short here.  Hey!  This ain’t health food!

In one pan place the chicken livers and saute at medium heat until there is no more pink in the middle and they just begin to crisp up.  A little crispiness in the liver is good.  A lot is bad  Be careful here..  Drain and cool to room temperature in a colander over the sink.

In the other pan saute the onions with paprika, salt, and pepper, over medium-low heat until they caramelize.  Cook them slowly–don’t let them burn.  Caramelizing onions is a skill a cook needs to learn, then use often.  It takes patience.  Patience is extremely important.  Real caramelized onions are one of the world’s finest treats; they get so sweet you could die.  Use them here.  After they are caramelized, set them aside to cool completely.  Don’t rush this process.  The onions and livers need to be completely cooled to room temperature or the final product will be mushy.  And nobody likes mushy chopped liver!

When cooled, mix the onions and livers in a bowl, tossing them with your hands to mix well.  Use your hands.  That’s the way real cooks cook.  Then cut the eggs in half and toss them in with the rest of the mess and toss well to combine.

Then run the whole mess through a food grinder attachment to a stand mixer using the largest holes.  Alternately, chop the mess up with a pastry cutter in a wooden bowl, but don’t cut the stuff up too fine.  There really needs to be a bit of bite to the finished product.  This isn’t pate.

Add the honey and Maggi seasoning and mix well.  If the chopped liver is too dry, melt the remaining two tablespoons of fat and add it to the bowl a little at a time and mix until it reaches the consistency of tight peanut butter.  Just don’t overmix here.  You don’t want to chop the stuff up more in the mixing process.

Taste as you mix, adding a bit more salt and white pepper if necessary.  Use just a bit more white pepper than you think you need.  Chopped liver is soooo much better when it’s just slightly peppery (resist the temptation to use black pepper.  It’s the wrong product.  Fine-ground white pepper here, please.  It should be a staple condiment in your kitchen.

Finally, coat a serving dish with a wee bit of the chicken fat or shortening and put the finished product in the bowl and chill in the fridge for at least six hours.  It will be really tempting to eat it all freshly made, but don’t.  Let it set up in fridge for a while.  It gets better.

chips

Serve the chopped liver with toasted bagel chips, available in bags at the deli counter at most grocery stores.  It’s the best way.  You’ll thank me later. Melba toast rounds or cocktail rye or pump slices are okay too, but not nearly as good. If you use rye or pump slices, toast them lightly before serving.

Advertisements

About Lancaster Food Style

Lancaster Food Styles highlights the best resources our community has to offer. From farmers to markets to vendors to retailers, we highlight those members of our wonderful food community who are striving to improve the presence of the commercial and retail food industry for all the citizens of Lancaster. The food we eat and drink is important to every single one of us, and we believe that everyone is entitled to safe and healthy food and drink. We hope to engage the citizens of our city and county who care about the food we eat and the environment in which we live. We know there are many people in the community who are doing wonderful things that benefit the people of Lancaster, as customers and consumers. We hope you will let us know who they are so that we can learn and inform those who eat and drink. That, as we know, is all of us. We are all in this together. Let's build a community.

Posted on July 14, 2013, in Appetizers, Finger Foods, Recommendations, Side Dishes. Bookmark the permalink. Leave a comment.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: