Ok. So…banana bread.
We have a bowl of bananas ripening–read: turning brown and mushy–on the kitchen counter all summer; we just can’t eat them fast enough.
So we’re swimming in inedible bananas. I know, I know…don’t buy so many. On the other hand, the skins are great for my rose garden, and oh, the muffins!
But it has to be simple, no muss, no fuss. That’s where the blender comes in. Wet ingredients? Dump and blend. One function, one thing to wash, easy to pour–perfect!
Dry ingredients: big bowl, add and whisk. Done!
Extras? Chocolate (or butterscotch, or toffee–whatever) chips, nuts, raisins, dried cranberries, dates, apricots–a half a cup of anything you like. I even made it once with rum and coconut extracts and dried pineapple pieces: pina-colada banana bread. Just use your imagination and have at it.
So. Red onions. Go into any sandwich shop in America and order a sandwich. Any sandwich. The first or second question the order taker will ask you is, “Onions?”
Why is that?
There aren’t too many vegetables that conjure up such a diversity of opinions as onions. Yellow or white? Big or small? Sweet (and if so, can a sweet onion come from any place other than Vidalia, Georgia?) or tangy? Red? Pearl? Ya want fried onions wit dat?
Down south, where they seem to like almost any vegetable pickled, there’s this thing called pickled red onions, and apparently they like them on their pulled-pork barbecue.
I’ve never been big on pickled stuff. Oh sure, I’ve grown to like a nice barrel-pickled half sour. Truth be told, those great big pickles in the barrels at Zabar’s are way too mushy and soft for my liking, although they are a pretty good garlic delivery system. If you catch them early enough in the pickling cycle that they’re still mostly crunchy cucumbers with salty garlic notes, they are okay; in fact they’re pretty darn good.
But pickled onions?
So when my beloved ordered a salad out with extra pickled onions, I found myself asking, “what’s up with that?” “Pickled onions,” she said matter of factly, like I was supposed to know what they were.
“Would you, could you, in a box?” She asked. “Would you, could you, on your lox?
“I do not like…”
She cut me off.
“Try them, try them. You will see.”
So I did.
“Hey, I like them, Sam I am!”
“I’m not Sam,” she said, perhaps the most obvious statement she’s made to me in years, and maybe just a tiny bit cross.
So. Pickled onions. I do! I like them!
I like them so much that I came home that afternoon and made a batch, from a recipe I found on Pinterest. They were terrific; great on pulled BBQ sandwiches, turkey sandwiches, salads–almost everything we eat here at W-T House. And so, I made more. Lots more, with a (hopefully) balance of sweet, spicy, salty, and savory notes. I adapted it from that first pinned recipe I found, with enough of my own nuances, and it’s fabulous. Try this one at home…
Pickled Red Onions
6 medium red onions, peeled, halved, sliced very thin
3 cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup Balsamic vinegar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon pickling spice
Pinch dried red pepper flakes
1. Slice off the ends of the onions, halve them through the root end, and slice the halves into half moons 1/8 inch thick. A sharp knife or a mandoline is necessary for thin slices. In a large bowl, separate the half moons into individual strands.
2. Mix the remaining ingredients in a medium non-reactive (stainless steel or enamel-coated) pot, bring to a slow simmer uncovered, and simmer for 10 minutes. In the meantime, prepare 4 pint jars, disks and rings for canning (wash and sterilize). Bring a large canning pot to a slow boil.
3. Fill the warm jars with onion slices and pack them tightly to within 1/2 inch of the rim. Slowly pour the hot pickling brine over the onions until the jars are filled to 1/4 inch of the rim when you push down on the onions. Wipe the rims and threads with a clean, damp cloth and cover the jars to hand tight with the disks and rings, tap lightly to eliminate air bubbles, and allow to stand for 10 minutes.
4. Place the filled jars in the boiling canning bath so that they are not touching, and ensure that the lids are covered with 1-2 inches of water. Return the water bath to a boil and process for 10 minutes (timing may be different at different altitudes–check with a canning resource on line for canning at altitude). Turn off the heat and allow the jars to stand untouched in the water bath for five additional minutes. Remove the jars to a wire rack and allow them to cool, untouched, for 24 hours.
5. Check for good seal on the jars–they should all have popped inward. Any jars that have not sealed properly should be placed in the refrigerator; they will keep refrigerated for up to six weeks. These jars will keep, sealed, for up to a year. Once they are opened all bets are off–maybe they’ll last a day or two, but they will keep for up to six weeks,
Tired of the same old mayo, vinegar, sugar cole slaw? Me too. I decided that it was time do do something a little different, and perhaps radical, just to shake things up a little bit. We hosted some friends for dinner a couple of weeks ago, and needed a plan. We has been discussing with daughter #2 about the graduation party she was planning, and then subject of barbecue came up, which led to the idea of pulled BBQ sliders. Which led to a discussion of menu, which led to a rare meeting of all our minds–and thus the decision was made.
And so, not being red-meat eaters by nature, we felt a dry run was necessary, and thus our dinner guests became the poor souls to bear the burden of our adventure in BBQ.
And what, may I ask, is a pulled BBQ slider without cole slaw? Why it’s just a boring pork (or as often is the case in our house, chicken) sandwich with sauce (think that’s crazy? Try THIS out: https://jeffskitchen.net/2012/08/06/crock-pot-pulled-barbecue/)
So. Cole slaw. I didn’t want to go conventional; I DO have a reputation to uphold, and I DO want our guests to have a unique experience–whether it be dinner guests or a herd of hungry teen-age grad-party revelers. In the end it worked out spectacularly for our dinner guests, and again a week later at a pot-luck dinner I attended.
Tequila, Lime, and Cilantro Cole Slaw.
1/4 cup mayonnaise
4 Tbsp FRESHLY SQUEEZED lime juice (about 2 limes)
4 Tbsp fresh cilantro, minced
2 Tbsp silver tequila
3 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup green onions, thinly sliced
8 cups shredded cabbage and carrots)
1 cup shredded red cabbage
In a large mixing bowl, add the first 7 ingredients (through black pepper) and whisk to combine until smooth.
Add green onions, coleslaw mix and red cabbage and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour, to allow flavors to fully combine.
I made this dish for company last week, and it was a hit. I adapted it from a recipe that Ellen found on Pinterest…
…from the kitchen of Angela LeMoine. I think that the recipe as published is too sweet for a BBQ evening starter dish. We’ve tried it with orange marmalade, Meyer Lemon marmalade (my homemade), and for company we used my own caramelized red-onion jam with fresh lemon thyme.
It’s absolutely too good to be missed. Even Stella the dog liked it, as she managed to sop up the last of it while our company had some wonderful conversation and Caprese skewers (a grape tomato, a rolled-up basil leaf, and a marinated mozzarella ball, drizzled with the Balsamic vinegar marinade).
But I digress…
Here’s this fabulous outdoor-living starter, about the easiest appetizer you could imagine...
Baked Brie with Red Onion Jam, Candied Maple Walnuts, and Cranberries
- 1 8-oz Brie Round
- 1/2 cup red onion (or orange) jam or marmalade
- a handful candied maple walnuts (recipe follows…)
- a handful dried cranberries
- 1 baguette, 1/2-inch slices
- Preheat your oven to 375 degrees
- Place the Brie in a heat-proof oven baking dish
- Bake for 15 minutes
- Carefully move the Brie to a serving dish
- Serve with slices of baguette
Candied Maple Walnuts
- 5 teaspoons olive oil
- 5 teaspoons pure maple syrup
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
- 3 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
- 2 cups walnut halves, coarsely chopped
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
- Heat oven to 350°F. In a bowl, whisk 5 teaspoons olive oil with 5 teaspoons pure maple syrup and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper. Stir in 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary and 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme. Add 2 cups walnut pieces; toss well to coat. Spread evenly on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake until fragrant and crisp, 10 to 12 minutes. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt. Cool completely.
Okay. You’ve mastered Kansas City-style BBQ ribs (you have, haven’t you? If not, see the post immediately preceding this). We didn’t address the famous KC “burnt ends,” but that’s for another day.
Now I will present to you the easiest, tastiest Chinese-style spare ribs, that you can prepare at home. Because let’s face it. Chinese-style spare ribs are one of your (and definitely my) most favoritist guilty pleasures. I simply can’t go very long without a batch of these babies. Even the strip-mall place makes ribs to die for, but you’ve to go get them (OK, I’ll grant that GrubHub and UberEats have changed the calculus. But still, they will come to you in a foil-lined bag that’s just a bit soggy and the ribs have been steaming and are resting in a pool of saucy grease).
Here is the way to have the best-of-the-best Chinese-style ribs at home–in your pajamas if you wish–without having to tip the delivery guy or gal–and lick your fingers in private, so that you get every single wonderful drop. And you don’t have to share.
So, here we go…
Better-than-takeout Chinese-style spare ribs
½ cup Hoisin sauce
¼ cup soy sauce
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons honey, plus 1 teaspoon for finish
1 tablespoon Chinese Five-spice powder
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated
2 racks spare ribs, St. Louis style—this is a MUST! Ask at the meat department counter.
A few drops of red food coloring (only if you insist. The restaurants do it to make the dish more visually appealing and authentic-looking, but really?
- In a non-reactive bowl, mix together the Hoisin sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, honey, five-spice, garlic, and ginger. Pour into a large zip-close plastic bag, reserving ½ cup for basting.
- Add the ribs to the bag, close and toss to coat all the pieces as best as possible. Refrigerate for at least three hours, turning occasionally—longer is better, and overnight is best.
- Heat a charcoal (best) or gas (OK) grill to 275º F (low heat is a must!), set up for indirect grilling.
- Remove the ribs from the marinade (discard the marinade) and place on a wire rack. Place the rack onto the grill AWAY FROM THE DIRECT HEAT. Close the grill cover and cook, basting with the reserved marinade every half hour, until the meat is fork tender, 2-3 hours. You should be able to stick a fork into a meaty rib and pull it out without the rib being lifted off the grill.
- Mix the honey into the remaining basting sauce, brush onto the cooked ribs, move them over the direct heat and cook, turning frequently, until they begin to char and the sauce begins to caramelize (don’t let them burn). Editor’s note: you can make these in the oven if you don’t have or want to grill. Wrap the ribs in foil and cook at the same temperature (basting every half hour) until they are fork tender, then broil until they begin to caramelize.
Kansas City Style Ribs are typically characterized by the thick, sticky sauce brushed on in the last 30 minutes of cooking. The dry rub and sauce are on the sweet side using a brown sugar base, but are balanced with chili powder and pepper, producing some truly finger licking good ribs.
Included are step by step directions to make the KC-style dry rub, an authentic KC-style BBQ sauce, and how to make these killer ribs in the oven, baked first, then broiled to finish.
Use only baby back ribs, and be sure to ask your butcher to remove the membrane from the back of the rack, and trim the pork ribs of any excess fat.
With a 2/1 ratio of brown sugar to paprika and the usual dry rub spices like garlic and onion powders, salt and pepper, chili and cayenne pepper, this is a great balance of sweet and savory with a slight kick. Use less cayenne if heat is not your thing. Bump up the heat if you like, too.
After the dry rub the baby backs are wrapped in aluminum foil and refrigerated to marinate for a minimum of 2 hours, but overnight is better.
If the grill or smoker isn’t an option, you can still get that smoky Kansas City flavor by adding a little liquid smoke seasoning, available at most grocery stores.
Preheat oven to 300°F. Place the ribs, bone side down, on top of a wire rack set in an aluminum foil lined baking tray and bake for 2-1/2 hours. Halfway through, cover ribs with aluminum foil to protect them from drying out. They will be done when a kitchen fork inserted into the meat between the middle two bones slides out easily without lifting the rack at all.
In the last hour, baste the top of each rack with the reserved marinade or BBQ sauce every 15 minutes. At this point they should be tender enough to pull apart with your fingers. Then remove the foil cover and set the ribs under a broiler set to low and broil just until the sauce begins to blacken (be careful here not to let the sauce burn. It can happen very quickly at this point. The ribs should have an internal temperature of 145°F. Allow to rest, covered loosely with a foil tent, for 5-10 minutes prior to cutting.
2 racks baby back ribs
- 1/2 cup brown sugar
- 1/4 cup paprika
- 1 tbsp black pepper
- 1 tbsp kosher salt
- 1 tbsp garlic powder
- 1 tbsp onion powder
- 1 tbsp chili powder
- 1 tsp to 1 tbsp cayenne pepper
- 1 tsp Liquid Smoke
2 tbsp butter
1 small onion diced
3 garlic cloves minced
1/2 tsp kosher salt
2 cups ketchup
1/3 cup dark molasses
1/3 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tbsp yellow mustard
2 tbsp chili powder
2 tsp black pepper
1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
Speaking of cauliflower…
Were we? Of course we were. That vegetable Americans love to hate.
I can’t get over how many ways I’ve found to use this wonderful vegetable the rest of the world understands. So flavorful. So simple to use. So misunderstood.
I’m out to demystify this white (usually) head of tasty goodness. This time with an Asian twist.
Cauliflower fried rice. My wonderful partner served it up the other night with an “empty-the-veggie-bin” stir fry, and to speak the real truth, I liked it better than rice.
You will too.
Cauliflower Fried Rice
- 1 medium head cauliflower, all green parts removed (2 1/2 cups cauliflower rice)
- 2 tablespoons toasted dark sesame-seed oil
- 1/2 medium onion, chopped medium
- 1 large carrot, cubed
- 2 garlic cloves, minced fine
- 1 cup frozen edamame
- 3/4 cup frozen peas
- 2 eggs, lightly beaten
- 4 tablespoons light soy sauce
- 6 green onions, minced
- Shred the cauliflower with the large holes of a box grater or pulse in a food processor until the pieces resemble rice grains
- Heat 1tablespoon sesame oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion, garlic, and carrot and stir fry until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the cauliflower, edamame, peas, and remaining sesame oil to the pan; stir fry quickly to cook the cauliflower to a soft (but not mushy) texture.
- Make a well in the middle, turn the heat down, and add he eggs. Stir gently and continuously until the eggs are fully cooked. Add the soy sauce and green onions, turn off the heat, toss to mix and serve immediately alone or with your favorite stir fry.
Note: for the last add of soy sauce, you could make a mixture of 1 tablespoon each soy sauce, sesame oil, honey, and oyster sauce for a slightly different, and most interesting flavor.
Cauliflower.The very mention of the word sends children running screaming into the night, right? To which I respond, “Good! More for me.” Inspired by the most wonderful small Indian restaurant in our town–that would be The Himalayan Curry and Grill on East Orange Street–and at the request of my sweetheart, who craves vegetables almost as much as I crave her, I found a most tasty, zesty, and bursting-with-flavor and aroma cauliflower recipe (truth be told, she found it, not I).
But with a tiny bit of skill and knowledge I managed to make it even better that what it looked like on paper, and even more healthy.
Cauliflower is one of those vegetables that you either love or hate–there doesn’t stem to be many take-it-or-leave-it opinions–so I decided to make it so deeply savory that even the doubters would not find it objectionable. It’s about the curry, actually, and of course there’s no shortage of opinions about curry, but that’s a discussion for another time.
So…curried cauliflower. It’s a good marriage. As a soup it’s unparalleled. As a roasted vegetable, even better. So let’s get to it…
Roasted Curry and Cumin Cauliflower
So, I’ve got to tell you folks, that I have come across the most wonderful “dinner-for-four” menu, both in terms of pure wonderfulness and ease of preparation. I made this recipe for the family and then for company, and won raves both times–the shocking rave was the family one, considering just how picky some of the people in my family can be. Truth be told, “picky” doesn’t quite capture the general intransigence with which my cooking is often met. More often my productions at dinner time is met with a “why can’t you just make macaroni and cheese, like all my friends’ parents do?”
To which I generally reply, “What the heck is macaroni and cheese?”
To which the response usually is, “Daaaaaaaaaaaddddd!”
But I digress…
Roast chicken, as you know if you follow this space with any regularity, is not really a mystery to me, as I believe I have previously graced you with what I believe to be the easiest, foolproof-est, moistest, tastiest roast chicken, done in an hour start to finish–perfect for a quick weeknight supper. If you haven’t seen it here, then check below. It’s here somewhere. Promise.
This particular chicken presentation takes a bit more time and planning, but then if you’re cooking for company you might want to take the extra time and effort, and buy wonderful fresh ingredients. Your guests deserve it. And so do you.
So try this recipe, for a butterflied chicken with warm bread salad and Thai-style pan-roasted Brussels sprouts (that’s right, Brussels sprouts! Even the kids liked them.
Butterflied Chicken with Warm Bread Salad
1 whole chicken (4-5 pounds) giblets discarded
4 1-inch thick slices crusty country bread, bottom crust removed, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/4 cup chicken broth
6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons white balsamic or champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3 scallions, green parts only, sliced thin
2 tablespoons dried cranberries
5 cups baby arugula
- Place the chicken, breast side down, on a cutting board. Using kitchen shears, cut through bones on either side of backbone; discard backbone. Do not trim off any excess fat or skin. Flip the chicken over and press down hard on the breastbone to flatten. Or remove the breastbone entirely.
- Adjust an oven rack to the middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Spray a 9 12 roasting pan with vegetable oil spray. Toss the bread with broth and 2 tablespoons of olive oil until the pieces are evenly moistened. Arrange the bread cubes in skillet in a single layer, with most of the crusted pieces near center, crust side up.
- Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and place it, skin side up, on top of the bread cubes. Brush 2 teaspoons of olive oil over the chicken skin and sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Roast until the skin is deep golden brown and the thickest part of breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 45 to 50 minutes, rotating halfway through.
- While chicken roasts, whisk vinegar, mustard, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in small bowl. Slowly whisk in the remaining ¼ cup oil. Stir in scallions and cranberries and set aside. Place the arugula in a large bowl.
- When done, transfer the chicken to a carving board and let rest, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Run a thin metal spatula under the bread to loosen from the bottom of the roasting pan. (The bread should be a mix of softened, golden-brown, and crunchy pieces.) Carve the chicken and whisk any accumulated juices into vinaigrette. Add bread and vinaigrette to the arugula and toss to evenly coat. Transfer salad to a serving platter and serve with the chicken. When carving the chicken, remove the legs, thighs, and wings. Remove the breasts whole from the breast bone and rib bones and cut the breasts crossways into 3/4-inch slices.
Thai-Style Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts
1 pound small (1- to 1 1/2-inches in diameter) Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium-hot chile, stemmed, seeded, and minced fine
2 teaspoons lime juice
1 teaspoon fish sauce
2 tablespoons dry-roasted peanuts, finely chopped
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
- Arrange Brussels sprouts in a single layer, cut sides down, in a 12-inch nonstick skillet. Drizzle oil evenly over sprouts. Cover skillet, place over medium-high heat, and cook until sprouts are bright green and cut sides have started to brown, about 5 minutes.
- Uncover and continue to cook until the cut sides of the sprouts are deeply and evenly browned and a paring knife slides in with little to no resistance, 2 to 3 minutes longer, adjusting the heat and moving the sprouts as necessary to prevent them from overbrowning. While the sprouts cook, combine the chile, lime juice, fish sauce, and ¼ teaspoon salt in small bowl.
- Off heat, add the chile mixture to the skillet and stir to evenly coat the sprouts. Season with salt to taste. Transfer to a large plate, sprinkle with peanuts and cilantro, and serve.
C’mon, folks. Who doesn’t like marmalade? I know, I know. Orange marmalade, an English tradition hasn’t quite captured America the way it ought to.
But I’m trying.
I make orange marmalade. I also make other types too, including, famously, the Meyer Lemon marmalade that got me started on this mad adventure into fruit and sugar cooking. I found an entry on one of Ellen’s Pinterest pages saying that she wished she had such a product, so with a little research I ventured to attempt a batch of the bittersweet goodie, and it came out wonderful.
And then, as my obsessive personality drives me, there was no looking back.
Marmalade became an obsession. Navel oranges, Clementines, blood oranges, red grapefruits, Persian limes, Key limes–no citrus fruits are safe. I’ve made them all. Some are good, some are great (Ellen says the Key lime marmalade has no future, because the color just doesn’t look particularly appetizing, but it tastes terrific.
In the meantime, my little jars of sunshine are turning up in the kitchens of friends and family, as they make wonderful gifts.
Also the obsession has now leaked into chutneys, but I’ll save that for another time. In the meantime, I’ve had a request for a recipe, as one demented relative has suggested to me that red grapefruit marmalade matches well with hummus. I simply can’t imagine that, but I suppose that’s why they make cookbooks and cooking shows on TV–because there’s no end to the combinations of foods that intrepid chefs are willing to convince us to try. I guess that’s what keeps them in business.
So, in that spirit, and without further ado, here is my red grapefruit marmalade recipe. It’s simple, so long as you have lots of time on your hands and the patience to cut big fruits into tiny little pieces. I apparently do, and it pleases my wife no end (and isn’t that what life’s about anyway?):
RUBY RED GRAPEFRUIT MARMALADE
2 large pink or red grapefruits
6 cups water
5 cups sugar
Place the grapefruit in a large pot with ample water, so they are bobbing about, and boil for 2 hours, until they’re soft. (You may have to top up the water here and there.) Drain, cool a bit, slice the grapefruits thinly, and roughly chop as well. Remove any large seeds.
Return everything to the pan, along with 5 cups of sugar and the juice of 2 lemons. Boil over medium-high heat, stirring frequently. With a candy thermometer at the ready, boil until the brew reaches 220 degrees F and holds that temperature for a minute. You can test to see if the setting point is reached. This is done by placing a teaspoon of the jam on a small plate and cooling it in the refrigerator. If the mixture thickens and creases when you press on it, it’s ready. If not, keep cooking and test again in a few minutes. When you are testing, take the marmalade off the heat so it doesn’t overcook. Also, skim the bubbles from the marmalade as you cook – this will keep the finished product from becoming cloudy. You can jar and process the marmalade at this point. If not, use within one month.
To can the marmalade, wash jars and lids with hot, soapy water, and then place the jars in the canning pot so that the water is at least an inch over the tops of the jars. Bring the water to a boil , reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Then place the lid disks and rings in the hot water for at least five minutes before using. Fill the hot jars with marmalade, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe clean the rims of the jars, carefully set the lids on the jars and tighten to finger-tight. Allow the filled jars to sit on a wire rack until all the jars are filled. Then place them in the canning pot so that they are not touching each other and the water is at least 1 inch over the tops of the lids. Bring the water to a rapid boil, then set a timer for 10 minutes. When the timer beeps turn the heat off, allow the jars to sit in the water for an additional five minutes, then carefully remove the jars and place them on a dry towel to cool. The lids should all pop inward and sound solid when tapped with a spoon. Allow them to sit untouched for 24 hours. If any of the lids don’t pop, refrigerate them and use within one month.